from – Saltwater Fishkeeping: A Guide for Young Adults and Teens
Making a bare tank into a marine aquarium takes just a few simple steps. You will need the tank that you have chosen, the study stand or furniture where you will place the tank, the substrate, the water, the ocean salt, the beneficial bacteria, and all the additional equipment to keep the tank clean and well lit.
Place the aquarium stand where the floor is sturdy, and where that area is relatively draft free.
See my book Saltwater Fishkeeping: A Guide for Young Adults and Teens for more information.
This list is what you need to begin with:
(Scroll over the bold italics item, and click for a product link. The links provided below are examples typically sized for a starter 29 gallon aquarium.)
Aquarium: The tank, the tank hood, an aquarium light, and a sturdy aquarium stand. If an aquarium kit was purchased (which I recommend), then only the sturdy aquarium stand is not included. A sturdy aquarium stand needs to be purchased. This can be a stand made specifically for the tank, or a piece of furniture. The requirement here is that it can hold the weight of the aquarium with everything added, and for a 29 gallon tank – it weighs about 300 pounds.
Filter: An undergravel filter, and a power filter. The power filter is typically included in an aquarium kit, so only the undergravel filter likely needs to be purchased. An additional internal power filter is an option to keep water moving.
Aeration: A good air pump, and air-stones. Once again, the aquarium kit likely included the air pump sized for the aquarium, and only an air-stone or two has to be purchased. Air-stones do get clogged and need to be replaced periodically.
Substrate: At least two inches of crushed coral, aragonite or crushed shell, and perhaps even sand (but I do not recommend live sand for a starter aquarium), needs to be purchased. Make sure that these have been cleaned and sanitized, and you can place different substrates in different places in the aquarium.
Heater (or Chiller) & Thermometer A thermostatic heater sized to your aquarium and a thermometer. If an aquarium kit was purchased, then typically only a thermometer needs to be purchased. An inexpensive thermometer that sticks to the aquarium for easy viewing is recommended. If you live in an area where a chiller/cooler needs to be used, that needs to be purchased as well, and most often a thermoelectric chiller work best. Sometimes just using a fan to blow air over the surface of the aquarium water works because increased evaporation cools the water. but keep in mind that using a fan will greatly increase water evaporation, and you will have to top off the water often. In areas with extreme heat, then refrigerant cooler (similar in function to an air-conditioner) will need to be used.
Aquarium Décor: Excellent choices for décor include synthetic decorations and synthetic plants. Marine fishes, especially reef fishes, need places to at least occasionally hide to feel secure – they do not do well in a bare tank. Purchase what you like and want to decorate the tank with. Natural coral skeletons or rocks may be used, just be sure that they have been cleaned and sanitized. I do not recommend live rock for a starter aquarium.
Water: Good water is important, and purified water is recommended. Distilled water (not recommended), reverse osmosis water or deionized water are not necessary. If your home has a water purifier (different from water softener), then that is a good choice for your water selection. Purchasing purified water is an option.
However, if you are not using purified water, then purchase a water conditioner. The water conditioner solutions work very quickly. They typically remove chlorine, chloramines, heavy metals, etc. They also add essential vitamins and minerals, as well as some protective biopolymers. I recommend using a water conditioner when initially setting up the aquarium, and at any time when non-purified water is added to the aquarium.
The water in the tank needs to be at a correct and reasonable pH for the fishes. Most saltwater fishes will thrive with a pH between 8.2 – 8.4, and this is a pH that is slightly basic. Quite inexpensive solutions typically sold as pH Up and pH Down will easily adjust the pH of your aquarium saltwater.
Aquarium Hydrometer & Ocean Salt: A hydrometer to measure the salinity (specific gravity) of the water needs to be purchased. An inexpensive floating hydrometer is all that is needed. A good ocean salt mix needs to be purchased. Purchase enough salt for at least two times (2x) the volume of your tank.
Marine Aquarium Test Kit: A combination saltwater test kit needs to be purchased. It needs to test for at least pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (these highlighted links are for individual supplies). Some easy to use test strips are also available for ammonia or multi-tests.
Porous Rock: A natural or man-made stone (e.g., EcoBio-Stone) to establish colonies of beneficial bacteria.
Beneficial Bacteria: These beneficial bacteria create the biological filter necessary to establish a balance nitrogen cycle within the aquarium. They reside in porous rocks, on and in filters, on the aquarium décor, and in the substrate. The man-made porous stones are exceptionally good for providing places (habitats) for these bacteria.
This list is what you will eventually need:
Eventually, to aid in the removal of excess organic matter (it typically comes from left-over food), you will want to add a protein skimmer to your aquarium. Removal of excess organic matter will decrease, and sometimes avoid, the build-up of nitrates and phosphates. This removal of excess organic matter will also help avoid the growth of microalgae (often called ‘hair’ algae) and blue-green algae (cyanobacteria).
Additionally, you may wish some help in the removal of excess nitrate besides the periodic and frequent water exchanges. Products, such as de*nitrate, remove nitrate and much more – ammonia, nitrites and excess organics. Also, some products change color, such as Purigen, to let you know when they need to be refreshed (often by just ‘cleaning’ with bleach, and they are regenerated).
Michael Hydorn Books 